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Our trip to Antrim and the Dingle Peninsula, Ireland
April 9-23, 2013

Drive to Dingle and Best Cottage on Earth

Saturday, April 13


View from the Best Cottage on Earth :



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Page 06: Sun – Dingle and Music at Courthouse
Page 07: Mon – Shopping in Dingle.
Page 08: Tue – Loch a'Dúin, Doyle’s Restaurant, Music at Courthouse.
Page 09: Wed – Cottage, An Canteen Restaurant, Michael & John at Mighty Session
Page 10: Thu – Fenit Pier and Bana Beach
Page 11: Fri – Inch Strand, Sammy’s Cafe, An Canteen, Music at John Benny’s.
Page 12: Sat – Dingle, Dinner at Michael & Dara’s, Music at Courthouse.
Page 13: Sun – Cottage, Global Village Restaurant, Dick Mack’s Pub.
Page 14: Mon – Dingle, An Canteen Restaurant, Pack and Return Home.
Page 01: Tue – Prep and Travel to Dublin.
Page 02: Wed – Drive from Dublin to Barbican Gatelodge in Antrim.
Page 03: Thu – Giant’s Causeway.
Page 04: Fri – Bushmills, Dunluce, Waterfall in Glenarm Forest.
Page 05: Sat – Drive from Antrim to Dingle, Murphy’s Pub.
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Drive to Dingle, Murphy’s Pub, and Best Cottage on Earth

Saturday, April 13

Three hours later, at 1:45 am, KC’s phone rang. He ignored it. Five minutes later it rang again and he ignored it again. The phone rang SIX times! Three different people had no idea they were waking us up in the middle of the night. When it finally stopped, we went back to sleep again and got up four hours later not quite as rested as we had hoped to be.

We left a glowing review in the guestbook (I wish we had read the other entries when we first arrived – there is a pub less than half a block away!), we loaded the car, and were on the road at 6:45. The sun was shining and it was 6.5°C (45°F).

In spite of the cold, we would both HEARTILY RECOMMEND staying at the GATEHOUSE. I think the Irish are hardier than we are. Yatelyn was never wearing more than a heavy sweater when he came to help us while I was bundled in 4 layers of clothing. At home, in winter, we keep our house at 70F during the day and 66F at night. I will be contacting the Irish Heritage Trust to recompense them for the additional heating fuel we used.

Glenarm Castle at dawn:



There are two ways to get from Barbican to Dingle, via M7 through Belfast and Dublin, and via N21 through the middle of the country. The N21 route adds an hour to our travel time but it will be much more interesting and will take us through parts of the country we have never seen so that’s the route we will take.

Route from Barbican to Dingle via N21, 342 miles 7.5 hours:




I had printed out the directions before we left and Google maps estimated that it would take us 7.5 hours and get us into Dingle at 2:15 pm.

Sun reflecting on the ocean:


Morning light:



We made really good time. Going through Belfast at 7:30 on Saturday morning was a smart move.

Traffic coming into Belfast:



Just before leaving Northern Ireland, we stopped to spend our remaining pounds sterling on gas.

Gas prices in Northern Ireland:



The temperature fluctuated wildly as we drove, dropping to 2.5 just before we left Northern Ireland and then climbing to 10 as we approached Dingle. At 10:30 we stopped for breakfast at a tea house in Ballinahown and had a perfect meal – locally sourced scrambled eggs and a latte for me, a freshly-baked raspberry scone and coffee for KC.

Tea Rooms at Ballinahown:



Thus fortified we continued on to Dingle and got in just after 2:00. We would have been earlier if we hadn’t hit traffic from Newcastlewest onwards. The most traffic we’ve ever experienced on that route.

Traffic before Newcastlewest:



Traffic at Newcastlewest:



At one point, we were behind three (slow-moving) horse trailers!



FINALLY, we saw the first road sign for Dingle!


My favorite view on the way into town:



Location of The Cottage in Graigue (pronounced groig) northwest of Dingle:




The Cottage in relation to Dingle:




As you can see, there are two routes from Dingle to the cottage. The northern route through Ballyferriter is a little shorter; the southern route along Slea Head drive is a longer but more scenic. We generally take the shorter route in the evenings (when there isn’t much to see), and the scenic route when the weather warrants it.

We stopped at Garvey’s for provisions, had a quick late lunch/early dinner at Murphy’s Pub – lemon cod for me and fish and chips for KC – ordered a sticky toffee pudding to go, and arrived at the best cottage on earth shortly before 4:00 pm.

Lemon crusted cod:


Murphy’s Pub Fish and Chips:



the best cottage on earth

Tig Meaig – Meg’s Stone Cottage
our PHILOMENAL home base for the next 9 days

New Pictures This Year!

The cottage we rent is owned and managed by Philomena and Alec Ó Conchúir (O’Connor). We call it the The Philomenal Cottage, an intentional misspelling, because the cottage and Phil are both PHENOMENAL!

The cottage is large but cosy, traditional but with every modern-day convenience, and is ideally situated to either explore the countryside or just sit and gaze out the windows. It is truly perfect. And the owners concern for your comfort and safety is unparalleled.

Obviously, we love it, since we have stayed here six years in a row and have already booked next year’s trip.

I have posted a few pictures below; but, rather than reiterate all of its virtues, which would add reams to this webpage, here is the link to a webpage I created with dozens of pictures and other information that anyone looking for a rental in this area would be interested in knowing:

Press here for additional (almost 100) pictures of the cottage (a new window will open).

Press here for link to the cottage website (a new window will open).


The EXTERIOR IS ALL STONE, a requirement for us,
and there is parking for at least 4 cars:


Press here for additional pictures of the cottage (a new window will open).


The cottage is RIGHT ON THE COAST, another requirement for us,
and has an INCREDIBLE VIEW of the ATLANTIC OCEAN


Press here for additional pictures of the cottage (a new window will open).


Close-up location of the cottage with respect to the shoreline
(i.e. what you are seeing when you look out the window):





Here are pictures of the living, dining and kitchen areas, where we spend most of our time. Although the cottage has 4 en-suite bedrooms, and we have never used more than two of them, it is NOT too big for only two people.

Because of the incredible view from the living-dining room we would not want to stay anywhere else.

Pictures of the living, dining, fireplace and patio:







Press here for additional (almost 100) pictures of the cottage (a new window will open).


The Archeological Book we had bought last year – Phil had saved it for us!
She really is amazing:



While KC unloaded the car, I took pictures of those things that were different in the cottage this year: a small table in the kitchen (which I don’t know how we lived without) and new bedding in the master bedroom.

We always use the master bedroom, upstairs, because we like the extra space the sitting area offers (and the phenomenal view of the costline when we wake up). We could just as easily use the large bedroom on the ground floor and reduce our heating costs by turning off the heat to the upstairs; but, the heat is so reasonable, we can’t justify the savings.

New this year: small table in kitchen, which came in VERY handy:




New this year: new bedding in master bedroom:





New this year: picture of view from master bedroom:


Press here for additional (almost 100) pictures of the cottage (a new window will open).


No sooner had we unloaded the car than Phil’s daughter, Sharon, arrived to welcome us! We chatted with her for a short while, got her phone number in case of emergency, and then settled in: I put the groceries away and then, while KC napped on the sofa, I unpacked my stuff and took a long hot shower – did that ever feel good after not washing for three days!

When I came downstairs, KC took a shower while I stored all the food I’d brought with us. I set up my MP3 player (my new phone!), hooked up my laptop, and started documenting. It was REALLY windy and we were hoping for another storm! We were so glad we decided to stay in tonight. The wind is so loud we can hear it OVER the sound of the music!

KC started a load of laundry and then brewed a pot of coffee so we could make Irish Coffee. There was a recipe taped to the cabinet in the kitchen, which we followed, and it was delicious:

Warm a stemmed wine glass (I used hot water to do this);
Mix 1 oz whiskey in warm glass with 1 t. sugar;
Add coffee to within 1 inch of the rim and stir to melt the sugar.
Top with whipping cream using a spoon to float it on top of the coffee.

I used ½ oz of the Power’s whiskey we’d picked up in Garvey’s (KC buys Power’s because it’s not available in the US) and extra cream because I prefer it that way. KC used 1.5 oz whiskey and less cream. I had mine with 2 bites of sticky toffee pudding. Since I never eat sugar, I am really going to have a buzz tonight!

I didn’t take a picture because I made mine in a coffee mug so here is a pic of the one I’m drinking while I work on this webpage, made with Jameson’s Black (as good as Bushmills Black) and raw whipped cream. The hot coffee combined with the cold cream really is a marriage made in heaven (and, yes, I like lots of cream in my coffee!):




KC fixed himself a sandwich and then played Scrabble on his iPad. We discussed what we’d like to do activity-wise this trip and chose things that are easiest to do when we’re traveling alone. The Gap of Dunloe, the The Ring of Kerry, and Glanteenassig which can be done even in less-than-perfect weather were moved to next year when we will probably have friends along.

After several hours, KC got up and said he was going to bed. When I asked him what time it was he said, “Late. Very late. After 3:00am.” I couldn’t believe it! I had been trying to process all the pictures we’d taken thus far so that, from now on, keeping the travelogue up to date wouldn’t take me 5 hours every night. He suggested that I continue to do so since we had nothing planned for tomorrow other than a trip into Dingle. So I did. I finally went to bed at 4:45 am! I hope I’m not a wreck tomorrow….


To continue to the next page, please use the links below.
A new window will NOT open.

Page 06: Sun – Dingle and Music at Courthouse
Page 07: Mon – Shopping in Dingle.
Page 08: Tue – Loch a'Dúin, Doyle’s Restaurant, Music at Courthouse.
Page 09: Wed – Cottage, An Canteen Restaurant, Michael & John at Mighty Session
Page 10: Thu – Fenit Pier and Bana Beach
Page 11: Fri – Inch Strand, Sammy’s Cafe, An Canteen, Music at John Benny’s.
Page 12: Sat – Dingle, Dinner at Michael & Dara’s, Music at Courthouse.
Page 13: Sun – Cottage, Global Village Restaurant, Dick Mack’s Pub.
Page 14: Mon – Dingle, An Canteen Restaurant, Pack and Return Home.
Page 01: Tue – Prep and Travel to Dublin.
Page 02: Wed – Drive from Dublin to Barbican Gatelodge in Antrim.
Page 03: Thu – Giant’s Causeway.
Page 04: Fri – Bushmills, Dunluce, Waterfall in Glenarm Forest.
Page 05: Sat – Drive from Antrim to Dingle, Murphy’s Pub.
Original, all-on-one-page version.


Press here for 2012 Dingle travelogue (a new window will open)
Press here for 2011 Dingle travelogue (a new window will open)
Press here for 2010 Dingle travelogue (a new window will open)
Press here for 2009 Dingle travelogue (a new window will open)
Press here for 2008 Dingle travelogue (a new window will open)
Press here for 2007 Dingle travelogue (a new window will open)
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Last Revised: May 27, 2013
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